Peer assessment

I feel that Dil is perhaps working at a level B1, as I think in some sections she did not quite achieve a lower First/A4. I think Dil has worked very hard in this unit and should be proud of her efforts, now with a better idea of which parts she can improve in future. 

Bibliography

Books

• Susan Doran and Norman Jones, 2014, The Elizabethan World, Routledge Worlds
• Chapters 4 and 5, in: Fenja Gunn, 1973, The Artificial Face: a History of Cosmetics, David & Charles, pp. 53-88

Videos

• Model Dani shot by Yulia Gorbachenko, 2012, (viewed 2nd November 2015), available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ci_1MZhvEG8

Websites

• Anon., 2013, Home Remedies to get rid of Freckles, (viewed 11th October 2015), available from: http://www.top10homeremedies.com/home-remedies/home-remedies-to-get-rid-of-freckles.html 
• Anon., 2009, Grand Ladies, (viewed 18th October 2015), available from: http://www.gogmsite.net/the_late_farthingale_era_fr/minialbum_queen_elizabeth_o/1592_ditchley_portrait_by_m.html 
• Anon., 2015, Queen Elizabeth I ('The Ditchley Portrait'), (viewed 18th October 2015), available from: http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw02079/Queen-Elizabeth-I-The-Ditchley-portrait#description 
• Betsy Jabs, 2011, How to make Natural and Antibacterial Mouthwash, (viewed 11th October 2015), available from: http://www.diynatural.com/homemade-mouthwash/
• Erica Roth, 2012, What causes conjunctivitis?, (viewed 3rd December 2015), available from: http://www.healthline.com/symptom/conjunctivitis
• Geni, 2015, Elizabeth Brydges, (viewed 30th October 2015), available from: http://www.geni.com/people/Elizabeth-Brydges/6000000012481831915
• Katherine Brind’Amour, 2014, Get the Skinny on Skin Disorders, (viewed 29th September 2015), available from: http://www.healthline.com/health/skin-disorders 
• Katie Wellness Mama, 2012, Natural Hair Color Recipes, (viewed 11th October 2015), available from: http://wellnessmama.com/5112/natural-hair-color-recipes/ 
• Linda Alchin, 2015, Elizabethan Hair Styles (viewed Tuesday, 6th October 2015), available from: http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-hair-styles.htm
• NHS, 2014, Stye, (viewed 3rd December 2015), available from: http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/stye/Pages/introduction.aspx
• Serena Mcclean, n.d., Skin lightening cream - make it at home!, (viewed 11th October 2015), available from: http://skinwhiteningforeversecrets.com/skin-lightening-cream/ 

Films

• Elizabeth, 1998, directed by Shekhar Kapur
• Elizabeth: The Golden Age, 2007, directed by Shekhar Kapur
• Funny Face, 1957, directed by Stanley Donan
• Seven Photographs that changed Fashion, 2009 (TV), BBC 4, Wednesday 14th January 21:00, presented by Rankin

Galleries

• National Portrait Gallery, visited on Thursday 15th October

Timed assessment - in the role of the artist

I was really pleased with myself once I had finished this timed assessment. Arriving early and having plenty of time to set up and prepare meant I entered the assessment in a very relaxed and confident state of mind. I assessed my partner's skin; there were a few more blemishes than normal, which I took into consideration when applying concealer. I began applying the make-up in a sensible order, so that the most important parts were done first, in case of any mistakes that might waste time. I did not think I would get it all done in time as I had overrun in the previous practice, but I did, with two minutes to spare. I thought the look was symmetrical and neat; my only concern being that the lips are slightly overdrawn - neat lipstick is something I always struggle with. I was glad I had plenty of time to add the gold neck, and was happy with the effect of the brush strokes, as I thought this section added a lot to the finished outcome. 

My partner was happy with how I did her make-up. I worked safely and quickly, in an organised fashion, and myself and Dil communicated well. I listened to her suggestions and we always agreed on things, coming to compromises where necessary. 

Overall, I am impressed at my ability, and think that all the time spent practising was very important in terms of creating such a good final outcome. 

My final practice of Dil's design

I now feel ready for my timed assessment. Dil had spent some time experimenting with looks she wanted, and we tried various products and techniques to achieve them. Dil also cut the lace into the exact shapes she wants them to be, so that we could finally create a true vision of the final look. We also took time to prioritise parts of the look that were most important, so that if anything goes wrong on the day and we run out of time, we can still complete the most important and effective features, meaning the finished outcome will still look like a contemporary twist on Elizabethan make-up, and will still be in theme with Dil's lady in waiting interpretation. 
In this practice. I used the second-palest shade from the foundation palette, as Dil preferred how it looked, and I found it easier to create an even coverage. I also used the lace shapes as a template for the gold on Dil's forehead, meaning the make-up was positioned exactly where Dil wanted it, and was symmetrical on both sides. It also meant it did not take so long. We have discovered that the Illamasqua Liquid Metals gold shade works best on the cheeks, so I used that, and again I was happy with the symmetry. Dil decided she likes the effect of messy, smudgy winged eyeliner, so I used a black eyeshadow to create this. I painted the eyelashes gold as usual, and the lips red. I was really pleased with the lip shape this time, although found that it took a long time for me to do, which could be a problem in the assessment. Lastly, I took the gold shade from before and painted Dil's neck and collarbones with it in a messy style, and placed another strip of lace over it.
Dil was happy with my work today; our only concern is timing, so I will push to work faster in the assessment, and make sure that the most important sections of the look are completed to the best of my ability. 

Final products to be used:

Skin: Kryolan foundation palette - FS38

Illamasqua loose powder

Kryolan concealer palette - D4

Brows and neck: Kryolan Aqua colour - gold

Eyes: Illamasqua eyeshadow - black

Kryolan Aqua colour - gold

Duo eyelash glue

Lips: Kryolan lip palette - 009

Cheeks: Illamasqua Liquid Metals palette - gold

Elf loose pigment - pale gold shade

Brushes:

Foundation brush

Kabuki buffing brush

Powder puff

Soft stippling brush

Small rounded brushes (concealer)

Medium rounded brush (contour)

Angled brush x2 (eyebrows and lips)

Flat squared brush (eyes)

Large firmer brush (for brush stroke effect on neck)

Mascara wands

Blusher brush

Timed Assessment - in the role of the designer

Despite it not being my partner's best try at the look, I was still pleased with the outcome Dil created. She arrived on time and had set up and organised everything she needed before I had sat down. When working, her attention to detail was great, producing a symmetrical look on nearly all of my face. She matched the foundation colour to my natural skin fantastically and applied the whole face of make-up well, always working safely and effectively. She frequently took a step back to assess how the make-up was going, using the mirror as a perspective too, and was always asking for and listening to my opinions and suggestions; our communication as a pair was very effective. Dil put a huge amount of effort into this assessment, not only on the day but prior to it as well, through multiple practices and conversations about the desired look. I felt that the look I wanted was achieved; the white mask effect, red lips and royal colours replicating Elizabethan fashions, and the messy brows and dramatic eyeshadow and lashes creating the modern, playful and flirtatious vibe I had aimed for. 

Unfortunately, during the assessment, Dil struggled with pressure and nerves, which affected her timing. This meant there was no time for final touches such as painting my real lashes white underneath the false ones, adding a touch of purple through my eyeshadow, or neatening up any parts that needed it; all things that I know Dil is capable of doing, as she did so in practice sessions within the time limit. Despite this, Dil worked in a clever way that prioritised the most important and striking parts of the look, meaning any bits left out would not ruin the overall look, and so I am still very impressed and pleased with it. I think my partner has learnt the pressure of working in such a situation and the importance of time management; and in future I think Dil would benefit from staying calm and having a bit more confidence in her skill. 

Dil's third practice of my design

Not a whole lot to say except that I'm very happy with this practice! Dil finished my make-up with a few minutes to spare - we decided not to add the lower lashes to save time, but if we have even more time for the final assessment these can easily be applied. Dil used a loose rose-gold MAC pigment on my cheeks to create a nice rosy contour which will hopefully be more shimmery under lighting than the Aqua Colour appeared. She did my lipstick very neatly and with just the right amount of black in the corners, and I loved the colour placement of my eyeshadow. I also liked the slightly messier and less blended effect at the bottom of the white mask section, and I felt that this resembled how thick, dry and patchy Elizabethan make-up was. Dil worked quickly, safely and hygienically, and I felt very comfortable.  Overall, I am very confident in Dil's ability to recreate this look for my final assessment!

Final choices of products to use:

• Skin: Kryolan foundation palette - FS38 + Ivory
• Skin: Kryolan Concealer palette - D3
• Skin: Illamasqua loose powder
• White strip: Kryolan Supra Colour palette - white 
• Brows: Kryolan Supra Colour palette - gold
• Eyes: Kryolan Brights eyeshadow palette - RB40, AB22, RB21, SM
• Eyes: White false lashes - black lashes painted white with Kryolan Aqua Colour
• Lips: Kryolan lipstick palette - 008
• Lips: Illamasqua eyeshadow - black
• Cheeks: MAC pigment - 'Tan'

My third practice of Dil's design

This time, I applied less foundation so that it was more sheer and made Dil less pale; she was happier with this finish. Next I applied gold Aqua Colour to her eyebrows, so that it would set and I could apply another layer to make them more solid and pigmented. I also put this under Dil's cheekbones; she preferred the side where I applied it a bit more lightly. Going back to the eyebrows, I traced the shapes on both sides, trying to get them to match, which was quite hard - once finished it was clear that one side was more curved and came up higher, so I will be careful to make them more symmetrical in the assessment. Next I applied black eyeliner (instead of the gold last time) to the upper lashline and waterline, winging it out slightly and blending it to give a smudgy look. On one side I used a kohl pencil and on the other I used the Illamasqua black eyeshadow with a flat brush; she preferred the latter as it gave a softer look. She liked the black around the eyes more than the gold from our last practice. I also painted the eyelashes gold. Then I applied lipstick. I always find it difficult to make them look neat and even, however I think I did a good job. We tried applying gold Aqua Colour to the cupid's bow and centre of the lips instead of the outer corners this time, which Dil preferred. Finally, I added the lace - a thinner one this time to let more gold show through - by dabbing Duo eyelash glue to the corners and sticking it on. I was happy with how I recreated Dil's design, and so was Dil. I had time left over, which means I will have plenty of time to paint Dil's neck gold and wrap lace around it to finish off the look. 

Dil's second practice of my design

For this practice, we created the full finished look, lashes included, to see if we would struggle with timing. Dil used a piece of paper as a stencil to get a graphic edge across the top of the white section, which worked well. She also matched the foundation and concealer to my skin tone really well. She used the gold Aqua Colour in my brows as it was much more pigmented than the Supra Colour, and I really liked it. She also used this on my cheeks, however once blended and soften, it lost its gold colour and looked greyish. We have decided to try a loose pigment for the final look as it should look more pigmented and shimmery. Dil applied much less eyeshadow this time and blended it out more, creating a look I preferred. However we tried applying the white base all over my eyelids, which resulted in the eyeshadow creasing slightly, despite heavily powdering them. For the final look we will have to leave the lids bare. I also want to try using less product and not winging it out as far. She stuck the lashes on, and painted them white with Aqua Colour again where the colour had come off slightly. I think the lashes really finished the eyes off. Finally, Dil applied lipstick, using black Aqua Colour on the outer corners, and then black Illamasqua eyeshadow on top to make it more black and also matte. 

In this trial we ran over the one hour and ten minutes limit; in future practice Dil will try to work faster, however reducing the eyeshadow might save time as well. Overall, I am happy with the result, as long as we can work quicker; one criticism would simply be to make the lips neater.

My second practice of Dil's design

After Dil had changed her design slightly, using gold and red now in place of purple and gold, I practiced her look again. I was much happier with the result this time; I knew what I was doing and felt that I did a better, cleaner job. I used the gold from the Aqua Colour palette instead of the purple from the Supra Colour Palette, and it was much more pigmented and easy to apply, covered the brows better, and was less easily smudged. Also, instead of only making the centre of Dil's face white, she decided to simply go for a pale shade all over. However, I still applied it a little too heavily, so next time I will use less product. I only stuck lace to one side of her face as I wanted to show the gold make-up underneath. We decided the lace Dil provided was a little too thick and hid the gold, so we will hopefully be using finer material next time. In all, I feel that my skills have already improved from the last time, and both myself and Dil were pleased with the look, and look forward to seeing the refined, finished outcome in the assessment. 

My first practice of Dil's design

Firstly, I assessed my partner's skin. I think she has normal skin, with minimal dryness, although it can be sensitive in places. I noticed that she blinks a lot when I work on or near her eyes, and they can get quite watery; so I will take this into consideration, and make sure to work carefully around this area. 

Next, I tried my partner's design on her face. She talked me through it as I worked, which was helpful. We tried different looks on either side of her face, using different products, and she preferred the more bold look on the right side of her face. We decided that in our next practise we will trial a more bold white in the centre of her face, possibly by applying foundation all over and then using white in the centre; whereas in this trial I applied a thin layer of white all over and then bronzed the outer parts of her face. Originally, Dil had planned for me to paint in a lace effect over her eyebrows, but due to how bold her brows, even when painted purple, we think using actual lace over the top of these sections would be more effective. 

Dil and myself were pleased with my skills and the outcome considering it was our first try. I am looking forward to trying different products and techniques and refining my skills, to create a much better final look. 

Dil's first practice of my design

My partner and I practised each other's designs on one another. Having previously tried my design on myself, I was able to give further tips and guidance, as well as her following my face chart. I was happy with the finished result, considering it was our first trial. She assessed my skin well, noticing my redness and adapting her technique to accommodate this. We experimented with gold eyebrows, which I really liked, and I felt it added a senses of royalty, in theme with Elizabethan make-up. We also tried different looks for the contouring on either cheek, a more bold, raised shape and a more subtle one, which I preferred. However I would've liked a more shimmery, iridescent finish, whereas both the Supra Colour gold shade and the Illamasqua Liquid Metals gold shade both came out a bit greyish. As for the eyes, next time I think I'd like a more smoked-out effect, but I really liked the colours. We decided that next time, for the lips, using less black product and blending it in, leaving more of the red visible, will look better. 

Overall, I was happy with the finished look for a first trial, but think techniques and product placement need refining. Having spoken to my partner, she feels more confident now that she has physically had a go at my design; I also think I could make my design and instructions clearer and more detailed for her. 

Technical make-up lesson 5 notes - Elizabethan make-up (+ consultation notes)

As I have been paired up with Dil for my final assessment, I thought it would be a good idea to work with her for this Elizabethan make-up activity. I did a consultation of her skin, so that I would be prepared for when I begin practising her make-up design on her. I think she has quite good skin to work on, with very few blemishes or sensitivities. 

Elizabethan make-up

Products to use:

- Illamasqua White Base foundation or Kryolan Supra Colour palette

- Kryolan blush palette

- Kryolan Brights eyeshadow palette 

Brushes:

- Foundation brush

- Powder puff

- Soft stippling brush

- Blusher brush

- Small rounded brush or finger (for lips)

Health and safety:

- Keep workspace organised and neat

- Use back of hand as palette to work from, not from acual make-up palette; don't duble dip!

- Be careful around eye area when applying mascara   

Prep skin - cleanse, tone, moisturise 

Today we learnt further techniques for applying a white base, and added whitened eyebrows and eyelashes, blush directly on the apples of the cheeks, and rouged lips; all in theme with Elizabethan make-up. By now I feel confident in my white base application, although today I tried the Illamasqua White Base Foundation rather than the Supra Colour. I liked it more than the first time I tried it, as I think I used less coverage and buffed it more for a less solid and blotchy effect. As Dil's eyebrows and eyelashes are so dark and thick, covering them with white make-up did not have the 'bleached' effect I was hoping for, so I may have to try techniques like wax or glue, with concealer on top, to give the effect of bare eyebrows. For the lips I used a reddish blush colour, and pressed it on with my finger. I really liked the striped, blotchy effect in the first lip picture.