Final evaluation of unit

At first, when the New Elizabethans unit began, I felt really overwhelmed; I was not expecting such a heavy workload and I underestimated the importance of elements like research. However, I found it fascinating learning about Elizabethan cosmetics and fashions, and enjoyed creating my contemporary version. I liked independently finding out more about the era, via books and films. I felt that I developed my practical skills in a very effective way, practising with my partner numerous times as the final assessment neared, to perfect her design, which we frequently discussed as her ideas changed. We experimented with variations of her original face chart, eventually coming to a final design which I felt I recreated very well in timed conditions, leaving us both pleased with the outcome, and satisfied with our hard work. We worked hard to find the best products, techniques and materials to use to create the desired look. I maintained a positive, proactive attitude throughout this project, gaining a good understanding of Elizabethan make-up, how it feels to work under pressure and to a design brief, and I enjoyed maintaining my sketch-blog. Staying on top of my independent studies and completing each weekly task in good time made the work load easier to handle, reducing stress and allowing me to put more effort into each task. Thus, I feel proud of my sketch-blog, and feel that all my work has come together to help me produce a final outcome that I am very happy with.


Technical file check-list: complete.

Peer assessment

I feel that Dil is perhaps working at a level B1, as I think in some sections she did not quite achieve a lower First/A4. I think Dil has worked very hard in this unit and should be proud of her efforts, now with a better idea of which parts she can improve in future. 

Bibliography

Books

• Susan Doran and Norman Jones, 2014, The Elizabethan World, Routledge Worlds
• Chapters 4 and 5, in: Fenja Gunn, 1973, The Artificial Face: a History of Cosmetics, David & Charles, pp. 53-88

Videos

• Model Dani shot by Yulia Gorbachenko, 2012, (viewed 2nd November 2015), available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ci_1MZhvEG8

Websites

• Anon., 2013, Home Remedies to get rid of Freckles, (viewed 11th October 2015), available from: http://www.top10homeremedies.com/home-remedies/home-remedies-to-get-rid-of-freckles.html 
• Anon., 2009, Grand Ladies, (viewed 18th October 2015), available from: http://www.gogmsite.net/the_late_farthingale_era_fr/minialbum_queen_elizabeth_o/1592_ditchley_portrait_by_m.html 
• Anon., 2015, Queen Elizabeth I ('The Ditchley Portrait'), (viewed 18th October 2015), available from: http://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/portrait/mw02079/Queen-Elizabeth-I-The-Ditchley-portrait#description 
• Betsy Jabs, 2011, How to make Natural and Antibacterial Mouthwash, (viewed 11th October 2015), available from: http://www.diynatural.com/homemade-mouthwash/
• Erica Roth, 2012, What causes conjunctivitis?, (viewed 3rd December 2015), available from: http://www.healthline.com/symptom/conjunctivitis
• Geni, 2015, Elizabeth Brydges, (viewed 30th October 2015), available from: http://www.geni.com/people/Elizabeth-Brydges/6000000012481831915
• Katherine Brind’Amour, 2014, Get the Skinny on Skin Disorders, (viewed 29th September 2015), available from: http://www.healthline.com/health/skin-disorders 
• Katie Wellness Mama, 2012, Natural Hair Color Recipes, (viewed 11th October 2015), available from: http://wellnessmama.com/5112/natural-hair-color-recipes/ 
• Linda Alchin, 2015, Elizabethan Hair Styles (viewed Tuesday, 6th October 2015), available from: http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-hair-styles.htm
• NHS, 2014, Stye, (viewed 3rd December 2015), available from: http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/stye/Pages/introduction.aspx
• Serena Mcclean, n.d., Skin lightening cream - make it at home!, (viewed 11th October 2015), available from: http://skinwhiteningforeversecrets.com/skin-lightening-cream/ 

Films

• Elizabeth, 1998, directed by Shekhar Kapur
• Elizabeth: The Golden Age, 2007, directed by Shekhar Kapur
• Funny Face, 1957, directed by Stanley Donan
• Seven Photographs that changed Fashion, 2009 (TV), BBC 4, Wednesday 14th January 21:00, presented by Rankin

Galleries

• National Portrait Gallery, visited on Thursday 15th October

Timed assessment - in the role of the artist

I was really pleased with myself once I had finished this timed assessment. Arriving early and having plenty of time to set up and prepare meant I entered the assessment in a very relaxed and confident state of mind. I assessed my partner's skin; there were a few more blemishes than normal, which I took into consideration when applying concealer. I began applying the make-up in a sensible order, so that the most important parts were done first, in case of any mistakes that might waste time. I did not think I would get it all done in time as I had overrun in the previous practice, but I did, with two minutes to spare. I thought the look was symmetrical and neat; my only concern being that the lips are slightly overdrawn - neat lipstick is something I always struggle with. I was glad I had plenty of time to add the gold neck, and was happy with the effect of the brush strokes, as I thought this section added a lot to the finished outcome. 

My partner was happy with how I did her make-up. I worked safely and quickly, in an organised fashion, and myself and Dil communicated well. I listened to her suggestions and we always agreed on things, coming to compromises where necessary. 

Overall, I am impressed at my ability, and think that all the time spent practising was very important in terms of creating such a good final outcome. 

My final practice of Dil's design

I now feel ready for my timed assessment. Dil had spent some time experimenting with looks she wanted, and we tried various products and techniques to achieve them. Dil also cut the lace into the exact shapes she wants them to be, so that we could finally create a true vision of the final look. We also took time to prioritise parts of the look that were most important, so that if anything goes wrong on the day and we run out of time, we can still complete the most important and effective features, meaning the finished outcome will still look like a contemporary twist on Elizabethan make-up, and will still be in theme with Dil's lady in waiting interpretation. 
In this practice. I used the second-palest shade from the foundation palette, as Dil preferred how it looked, and I found it easier to create an even coverage. I also used the lace shapes as a template for the gold on Dil's forehead, meaning the make-up was positioned exactly where Dil wanted it, and was symmetrical on both sides. It also meant it did not take so long. We have discovered that the Illamasqua Liquid Metals gold shade works best on the cheeks, so I used that, and again I was happy with the symmetry. Dil decided she likes the effect of messy, smudgy winged eyeliner, so I used a black eyeshadow to create this. I painted the eyelashes gold as usual, and the lips red. I was really pleased with the lip shape this time, although found that it took a long time for me to do, which could be a problem in the assessment. Lastly, I took the gold shade from before and painted Dil's neck and collarbones with it in a messy style, and placed another strip of lace over it.
Dil was happy with my work today; our only concern is timing, so I will push to work faster in the assessment, and make sure that the most important sections of the look are completed to the best of my ability. 

Final products to be used:

Skin: Kryolan foundation palette - FS38

Illamasqua loose powder

Kryolan concealer palette - D4

Brows and neck: Kryolan Aqua colour - gold

Eyes: Illamasqua eyeshadow - black

Kryolan Aqua colour - gold

Duo eyelash glue

Lips: Kryolan lip palette - 009

Cheeks: Illamasqua Liquid Metals palette - gold

Elf loose pigment - pale gold shade

Brushes:

Foundation brush

Kabuki buffing brush

Powder puff

Soft stippling brush

Small rounded brushes (concealer)

Medium rounded brush (contour)

Angled brush x2 (eyebrows and lips)

Flat squared brush (eyes)

Large firmer brush (for brush stroke effect on neck)

Mascara wands

Blusher brush

Timed Assessment - in the role of the designer

Despite it not being my partner's best try at the look, I was still pleased with the outcome Dil created. She arrived on time and had set up and organised everything she needed before I had sat down. When working, her attention to detail was great, producing a symmetrical look on nearly all of my face. She matched the foundation colour to my natural skin fantastically and applied the whole face of make-up well, always working safely and effectively. She frequently took a step back to assess how the make-up was going, using the mirror as a perspective too, and was always asking for and listening to my opinions and suggestions; our communication as a pair was very effective. Dil put a huge amount of effort into this assessment, not only on the day but prior to it as well, through multiple practices and conversations about the desired look. I felt that the look I wanted was achieved; the white mask effect, red lips and royal colours replicating Elizabethan fashions, and the messy brows and dramatic eyeshadow and lashes creating the modern, playful and flirtatious vibe I had aimed for. 

Unfortunately, during the assessment, Dil struggled with pressure and nerves, which affected her timing. This meant there was no time for final touches such as painting my real lashes white underneath the false ones, adding a touch of purple through my eyeshadow, or neatening up any parts that needed it; all things that I know Dil is capable of doing, as she did so in practice sessions within the time limit. Despite this, Dil worked in a clever way that prioritised the most important and striking parts of the look, meaning any bits left out would not ruin the overall look, and so I am still very impressed and pleased with it. I think my partner has learnt the pressure of working in such a situation and the importance of time management; and in future I think Dil would benefit from staying calm and having a bit more confidence in her skill. 

Dil's third practice of my design

Not a whole lot to say except that I'm very happy with this practice! Dil finished my make-up with a few minutes to spare - we decided not to add the lower lashes to save time, but if we have even more time for the final assessment these can easily be applied. Dil used a loose rose-gold MAC pigment on my cheeks to create a nice rosy contour which will hopefully be more shimmery under lighting than the Aqua Colour appeared. She did my lipstick very neatly and with just the right amount of black in the corners, and I loved the colour placement of my eyeshadow. I also liked the slightly messier and less blended effect at the bottom of the white mask section, and I felt that this resembled how thick, dry and patchy Elizabethan make-up was. Dil worked quickly, safely and hygienically, and I felt very comfortable.  Overall, I am very confident in Dil's ability to recreate this look for my final assessment!

Final choices of products to use:

• Skin: Kryolan foundation palette - FS38 + Ivory
• Skin: Kryolan Concealer palette - D3
• Skin: Illamasqua loose powder
• White strip: Kryolan Supra Colour palette - white 
• Brows: Kryolan Supra Colour palette - gold
• Eyes: Kryolan Brights eyeshadow palette - RB40, AB22, RB21, SM
• Eyes: White false lashes - black lashes painted white with Kryolan Aqua Colour
• Lips: Kryolan lipstick palette - 008
• Lips: Illamasqua eyeshadow - black
• Cheeks: MAC pigment - 'Tan'